Archive for October, 2008

End of An Era

Friday, October 31st, 2008

Hey Guys,

With changing of the seasons signifies the changing of times. This weekend was pretty busy taking new photos of some of the apartments to put up on the brand spanking new website!  Some of the old photos weren’t representative of the apartments on offer so new ones had to be taken. Anyways so I learnt our resident bossman Jason would be moving out of the Wen Cheng complex! I was like WHAAAAAAATTTTTT???!

This is the end of an era since as long as i’ve known him he’s been living there. As far as I’m concerned, Jason IS Wen Cheng! Gotten used to him being a stone’s throw away if stuff needed doing, randomness or just hanging out.  Especially with winter round the corner it’ll be a long chilly 15min bike ride to his new place!  Also his roomie has decided to move down there too but has gone hardcore and decided to live with a Chinese person to improve his Chinese! Wen Cheng’s gonna be a bit lonely now, what to do? No more random food ordering within the space of 5 mins.

Anyways off to class to be totally done over with a 95 word dictation….aak, the fun never stops!

Stay safe
Rob

您们好!

Friday, October 24th, 2008

Hey Guys and Gals,

Welcome to the new CSA blog page. I’m new to all this blogging and stuff and have no idea how this all works so might have to excuse me if I rabbit on a bit.

First of all let me introduce myself. I’m Rob and I’m CSA’s Beijing part time staffer  (also known as a dog’s body) altho at times it does feel like it’s full time!! Nah, it’s pretty cool as I get to hang out with the students and and have fun but only share half the workload!!! (hope the boss ain’t reading this!)

I started as a fresh faced CSAer, a raw recruit, wet behind the ears newbie and spent a year at Tsinghua studying Chinese.  Thankfully now I’m almost 2yrs here in “the ‘Jing” and loved it so much I decided to stay and not looked back. When CSA offered me a part time position I thought ‘hmmmm…..to find a full time job or keep the student lifestyle and work a bit???”  As you can tell I took the latter option!

Life in the ‘Jing is pretty cool with no pun intended as it is getting colder and colder here.  Time to break out the heavy coats, scarves, gloves and winter paraphernalia! Only thing they don’t prepare you for is the dryness and static! The static is evil!!!! I’ve never experienced so many electric shocks in my life. If there’s a gas leak in my apartment I’m so up the proverbial creek. I get it from stuff you thought you would never get it from such as the plastic casing of the tv, taxi doors, door handles, wood, furniture, taps, even water!!! You know it just becomes ridiculous when water gives you an electric shock!!! Guess a cool city can’t have everything. Maybe I need to invest in some rubber gloves….hmmmmm everything’s made in China nowadays, must be able to find a pair somewhere……..

Laters
Rob

Mai Huar

Wednesday, October 15th, 2008
I really had a fun time clubbing tonight. Before going out, I told myself that I had to relax and enjoy the fact that I’m in a completely different country gaining new experiences, one of which must be going out, drinking, dancing, and watching ridiculous people act like Jessica Alba in -Honey- because there’s a giant mirror on the wall next to the dance floor. (Yes, I actually watched that move, and yes, it was as bad as you imagined.) It was one of those great clubbing nights in which everyone is too drunk to worry about looking cool, especially the guys, and we ended having a good time and acting like a jackasses (always fun on the dance floor.)

The DJ was a bit eclectic. After playing about an hour of euro-house for “big fish/little fish dancing” (what you’re supposed to do with your hands when dancing to house apparently), he played “Sexy Back” which got me all pumped up. And then he played “Mr. Wendell” by Arrested Development. I hadn’t heard the song in years, but I was rapping along with the entire song while everyone stood to the side wondering what the heck we were listening to. The song itself tells a story about how the protagonist likes to get advice from a homeless man who goes by Mr. Wendell. The song has always resonated with me, and it was odd to hear it in a trendy night club in China, but it was weirdly prescient.

Afterwards, we all went downstairs to leave, and I stood outside smoking in the rain, which is practically why cigarettes were invented in the first place. While talking to a female friend, as usual, a woman approached me asking me to “mai huar,” which means to buy flowers. In Beijing, a lot of vendors wait outside of clubs trying to sell overpriced things to drunken people. Of course, I had no intention of buying flowers for anyone, let alone a dead rose for 10 kwai. But once my friend walked back inside, I started talking to the “mai huar” lady. I have an odd habit of asking Chinese people their life stories when I”m drunk. I always find their answers fascinating.

First she asked if I was Korean. I get that a lot, because I look Asian, but my accent is a little funny sounding. I teased her and eventually explained my background. I asked her where she was from because most of the street vendors in Beijing are actually migrant workers from other cities.

She has two kids, one 15 and one 12. They live in Henan with her parents and are in the same grade. She hasn’t seen them in two years. Her and her husband rent a small living space for 400 kwai a month (about 50 US Dollars), and she pays the rent by buying flowers in bulk in the morning, wrapping them in cellophane, dethorning them and selling them outside of night clubs. Her husband has a very bad heart disease and can no longer work, but they can’t afford take him to the hospital. She stays outside of the nightclubs every night until the sun rises and then walks home. Sometimes she can sell maybe four or five, which will be a decent enough night. Lately, Chinese people have been buying more than the foreigners.

After hearing a Chinese person’s story, I usually like to give them some money. I know that sounds really messed up, but I just like knowing that someone is a person—that they have a life and a history that resonates in a place that I am unconscious of. While she was talking, I figured that I would give her 10 kwai, but then she said something that just made me shatter inside, “life is so cruel, it’s better to be dead. If not for my kids, I would have been dead long ago.” And then she started crying, and then brushed away her tears and acted like it was the rain.

I felt horrible. I felt absolutely sick to my stomach. Everything that I deal with on a day to day basis seems so inconsequential in comparison. It was heartbreaking to have a middle aged woman cry in front of me, saying that she wishes she were dead.

And now I can’t stop thinking about it. I can’t stop thinking about the inequity of life, how there will always be haves and have notes. I felt incredibly guilty that my life has been so fortunate. I’ve never had to worry about where my next meal is going to come from. Not everything is perfect, but my life is relatively easy compared to those who have to work hard just so they can send their kids some money in a province thousands of miles away. The history of humanity seems to contain so much misery, and my mind is always preoccupied with the mundane minutiae of a middle-class American life. I just felt so absolutely disgusted with myself. And more than anything else, I felt guilty for not being happy. It’s like a slap in the face to those who are less fortunate than I am when I feel that my life is not satisfactory. Every complaint, every slight, every misfortune seems like a mole hill in the face of the mountain of human misery.

And now I can’t sleep.

I know there aren’t easy answers to such difficult questions, but I really hope that I can live my life in a way that makes other people’s lives better. That I can somehow measure up, or even deserve, all of the wonderful things that have been given to me in my life.

I bought all of her flowers and sent her home for the night. It’s not in my budget, but I figured I could easily skip out on 100 kwai worth of food and booze—a ridiculously easy sacrifice. I hope that she’s sleeping right now, instead of waiting outside of a nightclub hoping some inebriated young man wanting to get some will “mai huar.”

After I gave her the money, she tried to give all of the flowers to the girls we were hanging out with. Everyone brushed the flowers aside because they are in fact, rather ugly and totally pointless. So we left the flowers sitting on a table. Imagining those forgotten roses sitting on a gaudy plastic tabletop underneath fluorescent lights encapsulates how I feel. Pretty soon, someone will walk by and throw them in the trash–all of her hard work, bundled up in cellophane, the hope for a better future for her kids who won’t have to basically beg people for money, lying in a heap ignored and forgotten by people like me. They are overpriced and ugly anyway.

-Jason

Squatting on a Train

Wednesday, October 15th, 2008
I finally did it. After traveling to countries on four different continents, living in Asian countries non-continuously for more than a year, I swore I would never have to, but my hand was forced this morning when riding the high altitude train from Xi Ning, Qing Hai to Lhasa, Tibet. I woke up; they turned on all the lights in every sleeping compartment and began blasting annoying public service announcements in mandarin and Tibetan; and I really had to go. Usually on Chinese trains there is at least one actual toilet on the entire train, typically near the soft sleeper luxury beds. I paced the entire train from locomotive to caboose but could not find a luxury sleeper area and the prized “ma tong.” Facing another 14 hours on the train, I realized that it was now or never. It was the last hurdle, the final straw. And wow, it was worse than I thought it would be. Thank god they had a handlebar to hold on to because otherwise, well, I don’t want to think about otherwise. All I have to say is that it’s horribly unsanitary and I can’t understand how people the world over do this on a normal basis. And despite washing my hands with soap for over 5 minutes, I still feel completely contaminated everywhere. I’m completely paranoid and keep sniffing the air for some smell. It’s driving me crazy. I don’t want to touch anything for fear that I’ll contaminate everything around me. (In case you didn’t know, the origin of the SARS epidemic was primarily caused by unsanitary conditions concerning fecal matter.)

I just got my first glimpse of a snowcapped mountain. It’s incredible. I’m used to seeing mountains that have snow on them, but this is different. Normally, it looks like a mountain that someone spray painted white. This looks like someone took white frosting and smoothed it over every crevice and ridge. On the highest ones, there’s not a speck of brown. Also, there are no trees at all. In fact, the entire time we’ve spent on the Tibetan plateau while in Qinghai and now here, we have yet to see a mountain with trees on it. I’m not sure if the altitude is too high or if there isn’t enough moisture. It’s rather dry up here, despite the snow. And while looking at the snowy mountains above and the clouds that seemingly have to crawl over the peaks like an obese kid doing hurdles, I wonder how long that snow has been there. It’s probably packed so tight that it’s complete ice like a glacier. Actually, looking at the way they’re coming down the mountain, I’m positive that those are glaciers, thousands of years of packed snow hanging off the sides of these relatively tiny mountains. We aren’t even close to the highest point on the railway. .

According to the train, we’re currently at an altitude of 4648 meters, and it’s 2 degrees centigrade outside. For those of you unacquainted with the metric system, that’s 17606 feet and 36.5 degrees Fahrenheit. We keep climbing and the temperature keeps dropping. Pretty soon, all around us will be pure white and our rails will be riding upon temperamental permafrost, kept at a consistent level by heaters and solar panels along the track. It’s the highest railway in the world and one of the most difficult ever to build. There are oxygen pumps all along the train next to every bed just in case of altitude sickness, and the entire train is pressurized like a But now it lets people like me that are afraid of squatting, access what was previously one of the most inaccessible and inhospitable places in the world.

My iPod just died, and I have a 48 hour train ride from Lhasa to Beijing ahead of me. By died I don’t mean it ran out of batteries; I mean that there is this weird iPod cartoon figure with X’s for eyes telling me to go to www.apple.com/support on the screen. It keeps making this weird I feel like my dog just died. I thought I was a tough guy. I didn’t succumb to altitude sickness, even on the way to Golog when we went on a mountain road that was over 19,000 feet high (jetliner cruising altitude is 20,000 feet). But now, I feel like a captain without a compass.

Well, here’s my situation in a nutshell. There are no real toilets. My iPod just died, possibly forever, and I will not have any of my music in China. I’ve got at least 2 and a half more days of travel left. It smells like the people in my train haven’t showered in a long time, and I can’t find my deodorant. Because the train is pressurized we’re not allowed to smoke anywhere on the train. However, there is a lot more good news: I’m going to be in Tibet soon. I like the company I’m with. I have pretty much completed shooting on the documentary and have about 13 hours of footage, but a few more interviews with the students would be good. We volunteered with Tibetan orphans in Golog, and we’re almost ready to start our full on CSA volunteering program. It doesn’t smell as bad in here as it did on the night bus from Golog to Xi Ning. I’m not sick anymore. And I have clean underwear. Now I just feel like a spoiled brat.

Sigh, I don’t feel any better. I still miss my iPod.

-Jason

Trip to Lhasa, Tibet

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008
Lhasa, Tibet
We all thought Lhasa would be cold. We were wrong. It’s outrageously hot, at least it has been for the last two days. Half of us have farmer’s tans, and the rest of us have farmer’s burns. Because we are so high up, there is less atmosphere protecting us from the sun’s rays. I’m sure it doesn’t help that the ozone is being depleted, but that’s an entry for another day. (Believe it or not, global warming has had a very tangible effect on the lives of nomadic Tibetans.) It’s mid-October, and instead of hawking winter coats, street vendors are selling fake Ray-bans. We were all worried that it’d be snowing and that we hadn’t brought enough winter gear. I’ve been walking around in shorts and sandals, but once the clouds appear and the wind starts blowing, the temperature drops at least 20 degrees. Undoubtedly, it gets devastatingly cold here come late November.

Yesterday we went to the Potala Palace, the traditional home of the Dalai Lama. It was incredibly beautiful and quite a climb. To limit crowding, they only allow 700 visitors a day. Moreover, they assign each group a set appointment time in which they are allowed to enter the temple. It’s quite understandable because some of the hallways and stairwells can be quite claustrophobic. Plus, it’s a welcome change from the crowding of the Summer Palace and the Forbidden City in Beijing. We had to book our visit a day in advance using our passports, which the doormen checked before we entered. It was quite a process. After we entered, they had us pass through a metal detector to make sure that no one had any lighters. Much of the temple is made of wood, very old wood, much of it dating back hundreds of years. A carelessly discarded cigarette could destroy a national landmark and the geographical heart of Tibetan Buddhism.

The walk up to the actual temple was quite a trek, especially because the air is so thin. It was worth the climb though because the inside is rather spectacular, and the view from the top is pretty incredible. Because many of the religious relics are very old, they don’t allow any photography or videotaping for fear that the flash could cause the colors in the paints to fade faster. I argued that video and non-flash photography wouldn’t hurt the relics, but they refused to listen. Even when we were outside on the veranda overlooking the city, we were prohibited from taking photos. Ou Xin tried and almost had his camera confiscated. So, unfortunately we don’t have any photos or video to show you from the inside of the temple, but maybe that’s a good thing. Now you have no choice but to visit if you want to see the inside.

Part of me thinks that their absolute refusal to allow any imaging inside the temple is an issue of sanctity, and in a sense I can understand that sense of inviolability. I mean, in front of the palace on the sidewalk, thousands of feet away from any of the statues and relics, there are Tibetans kneeling and praying. And it seems that there’s a certain level of respect that the caretakers of the temple want accorded to their religion, which I find completely understandable. It made me feel torn because I want everyone else reading this blog to see the incredible sights that we’ve been privileged to see. Although, once I was allowed to put down the video camera, I did feel freer to develop my own feelings and insights about the temple as opposed to trying to figure out what would look best on camera and constantly worrying about framing my shots. Despite the obvious commercialism and touristy nature of the temple, a sense of contemplation and sacredness transcended through it all. By the end of our tour of the temple, I felt a strong desire to meditate, which is something I haven’t done since I was a child. Perhaps the image that best encapsulates the feeling, which I unfortunately wasn’t allowed to record, is the cat that peacefully sat in the temple room with bronze models of holy Buddhist temples. It didn’t seem to matter that hundreds of visitors passed through each day, the cat just sat there calmly and allowed each visitor to pet her, as if she herself were just another one of the temple’s sacred and smiling Buddhas.

Anyway, the Potala Palace was originally built in the 7th century and was further expanded in the 16th century. It’s the centerpiece of the city of Lhasa, which is the capital city of Tibet. The valley is surrounded by mountains on all sides, and it’s quite an epic view. In fact, the Chinese government thinks so highly of it as a national Chinese landmark that they’ve placed it on the back of the 50 RMB bill. It’s easily the tallest building in all of Lhasa and towers over everything else, except of course the surrounding mountains. The night view of the temple is particularly enchanting because the entire structure is lit up, and on weekends they have a musical fountain show. It’s a little kitschy, but the regality of the temple itself shines through.

Well, I’ve still got a lot of Lhasa to see and a few souvenirs to buy for the family, so I’ve got to go. I’ll try to update more about the trip as soon as I can.

The Potala Palace
Jason Coe
China Study Abroad, Program Director

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Friday, October 10th, 2008

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